Short Shrifted

I’ve been bookmarking short-guy-fashion-related forum threads for a long time and thought it’d be nice to weave them all together into one big post. So here goes. There’s some real worthwhile info buried in some of these. And you can also potentially help someone out by answering their query and dropping some knowledge on them (login generally required to post replies). OK, a few of these threads are getting a bit long in the tooth, but all the info is still valid. And after you check these out, remember to come back and build the conversation right here on Short Shrifted by adding your comments on my posts, asking questions, and offering advice, stories, etc. Enjoy:

Where Can I Find a Tux that Fits?: “I’m a short guy who weighs 110lbs and has a 34″ chest. Where can I find a decent tuxedo that fits at a decent price? I’ve been to the local tux rental places - no one has anything to fit me. Nordstroms Rack put me in two Abboud 36S tuxes (one black label, one “Joe”) and both were too large in every measurement. The tailor said he would have to take several inches out of the shoulders and if he *just* did the shoulders, forgetting about the length (too long) of the jacket as well as the sleeves and buttons, it would add $80 to the $350 tux. Or should I just pay $50 for a way-too-big tux on ebay and then spend the other $200 getting it altered?” [MetaFilter]

Help Incorporating Blazers into Wardrobe for Work: “My biggest fit challenges: 99% of sportcoats are too big in the shoulders and baggy in the sleeves. I am a 36s, which I have trouble finding many of while I’m out shopping.” [Ask Andy About Clothes]

Clothes for the Short Guy - Stores, Brands/Lines, Websites: “A thread dedicated to stores/brands and websites that cater to the short guy (under 5′7 applies?) - I’m only 5′5. Anyone else tired of going to stores and spending more time looking for what’s available in your size and then if you like it, rather then clothes you like and then picking out your size? The slim fit thread and others have been pretty helpful but for mainstream stores i still find this a problem.” [Styleforum]

Clothes for the Short Blokes: “Guys, I am one of those short arses that can never find jeans or trousers that will fit off the peg leg length wise. Waist sizes are no problem but I can never find trousers/jeans that I can wear without having to have the leg length taken up and yes, I do mean those ones that are actually made for short guys. I think that my inside leg measurement is somewhere in the region of 28″. Does anyone know where I can get trousers/jeans that are slightly shorter than the standard short, if that makes sense?” [Men’s Health UK]

Finding Suits for Short Portly Men is Hell I tell You Pure Hell: “Okay, for whatever reason, I cannot find this information to save my life: In men’s suits, what is the typical length for a “short” (as in not regular or long) suit jacket? For a regular jacket? Is there a range of typical lengths? I know, by the way, that some suits are made custom, but there are also plenty of suits that are bought off-the-rack, and that’s really what I’m interested in. Bonus points: Send me to a resource that has a veritable cornucopia of this information — arm length to jacket length to chest width . . . and I will send you cookies.” (Short Shrifted cannot verify the sunset date of the cookie offer) [MetaFilter]

Can a Short Man Wear a Double-Breasted Suit?: “I tend to think that anyone can wear a double-breasted suit, even the shorter of us, so long as you’ve got the right build. It seems that leaner is better in that regard. But how lean is lean enough? I’m not skinny, but far from fat, too. To be precise: 5′4″, 135 lbs, 38-inch chest, 18-inch shoulders, 29-inch waist, gigantic head. Too stocky, too short, plain unimaginable?” [Styleforum]

An Interesting Article from Today’s NY Times Styles Section: “Quote: ….shoulders tend to be scaled to linebacker dimensions on suits whose labels say 38 Small, where blazers have armholes the size of kiddie pools, where shirt pockets float just above the waistband and where belts often wrap around one’s waist like a lariat. ….shirttails hang so ridiculously long that short men are sometimes forced to tuck them beneath the crotch in the manner of onesies. Zippers on jeans are so long that waistbands ride above the navel, geek style. Inseams droop so that they leave a wearer with little choice but to roll and cuff like Howdy Doody or else to hack at the hems with the manic vigor of Edward Scissorhands. “Basically it has driven me into the whole bespoke category, as expensive as that may be,” said Robert Burke, the fashion director for Bergdorf Goodman, who stands 5-foot-6 and is given to wearing double-vent suits luxuriantly molded to his trim frame. In the industry Mr. Burke is known as a particularly natty dresser. He should be, considering that much of his wardrobe, shoes included, is custom made.” Is it my imagination that even the regular sizes are getting longer and longer?” [Styleforum]

Where Can I Find Details of the Latest UK “High-Street” Fashion for Men?: “I’m having trouble finding websites showing what’s hot in the high-street fashion world for “normal” men - not those 6′4″, emaciated, androgynous models designers always hire to make their clothes look good. I’m 5′8″, 85Kg, have fair skin, and a bit of a tummy. I know what kind of things to wear to make myself look slimmer but I don’t know what the current trend is. I know it was layers last year, but that’s about as much as I know. Are there any websites/blogs that follow the trends which I can bookmark/subscribe to and keep my style up-to-date?” [MetaFilter]

Remember my PDF guide to short neckties? Well, J. Raffiani specializes in crafting neckties for the shorter man. And though this isn’t exactly a forum, it’s interactive. Jason Rappoport, Raffiani’s honcho, is currently conducting a market-research poll on his LinkedIn page (registration required) that poses the following question: What would you pay for a handmade Italian silk tie just for shorter men?.

There are three timeless things that every men’s barbershop should offer its customers: great haircuts, relaxation, and good conversation. NYC’s Xac Anthony Salon & Spa in Chelsea had all three covered when I went in for an appointment before Thanksgiving (Full disclosure: the owner and some of the stylists are loyal Short Shrifted readers and offered me a free haircut; regular price is $85).

First off, Lennie, the stylist I saw, gave me an excellent chop (it had been ages since my last cut and I was looking pretty mountain mannish). It was easy to relax, too, thanks to the standard complimentary glass of wine (they also do margaritas on Friday nights). And finally, good barbershop banter. Xac Anthony has a bunch of savvy, stylish short guys on the staff — co-owner Anthony Valente (5′6″) and stylists Lennie Vega (5′8″) and Yuval Samburski (5′5″). I learned a lot just shooting the breeze with them — all without leaving my chair.

Anthony Valente, Owner

HAIR
“There’s really no specific hairstyle for short guys. Wear it however you want. The only thing you really need to stay away from is long hair. It draws the eye down. I wouldn’t suggest hair going past the cheekbone… I’d even go as far as the jawline. I guess the only thing I’d recommend for the shorter guy who wants to appear taller is to have height in his hair and we all know nobody wants height in their hair [laughs]. This isn’t the early 90s anymore. I don’t really try to heighten anymore; I’m proud of being 5-foot-6. Nothing I can do about it.”

STYLE
“The best thing to do is focus on a look, a style, a flow. There has to be some sort of unity between your hair, your style, and your clothes — even down to your shoes. I’m sharp, casual, classic. I always go for the classic look. I think it’s great for short people. I’m really into solid colors; not patterns. Everything is form-fitting, tapered. I stay away from baggier pants because the wider you are, the shorter you look.”

STORES
Armani Exchange, Club Monaco: “I’m an athletic build [40-inch chest, 30-inch waist, 28-inch inseam]. I work out, so I usually go for athletic or European cuts. My absolute favorite stores that I’ve found are Armani Exchange, which is fantastic, and Club Monaco. When I have to refresh my wardrobe, those are the two shops I hit up first. Especially when it comes to button-down shirts. I’m wearing Armani Exchange right now [Check out the photo of Anthony above — he’s the guy on the right]. They fit me ideally. They’re tapered nicely through the torso. They give you a lot of room in the shoulder area so they fit my broad shoulders. I wear a Medium and I’m wearing it untucked and the length is perfect. It falls in the perfect place I want it to fall, right at the wrist. Everyone asks me if I get my shirts custom-made or tailored! And they have sales all the time. Except unfortunately, when it comes to sale racks the only thing left usually are like XXXLs, which sucks. But I’ve been fortunate to find stuff. You’ve got to search and dig a lot deeper, but you find it.”

Adriano Goldschmied: “I love their AG7 jeans. They’re great for short guys because they’re form-fitting in the waist. The exception is the length, of course.”

The North Face: “The unfortunate thing about winter is you gotta wear those big, puffy jackets to keep warm. But The North Face is great because they’re not too puffy where I look as wide as I am tall. They’re classic; they’re not trendy, it’s not a fad. Just a good, basic winter jacket.”

G-Star: “I just got a nice G-Star jacket recently. Down, fur hood. It’s a little on the puffy side, but it’s not to bad.”

Lennie Vega, Stylist

STORES
I didn’t have my steno pad out when Lennie was cutting my hair (too busy throwing back that glass of wine), but he suggested a few stores that I hadn’t been tipped off to before: Behavior, Buckler Jeans, and Century 21. I’ll definitely be making a trip to all of these soon.

So, check out Xac Anthony if you’re getting shaggy. Besides sharp scissors, they’ve also got lines on some sharp threads. Need another reason to go? SPECIAL OFFER: Short Shrifted readers get 25% off the cost of their first visit. Just mention this site when you make your appointment.

Our Man in the Pine Barrens reports on some new MTM dress shirts that just arrived from his “favorite” shirtmaker Simone Abbarchi of Florence. Apparently, Abbarchi aces the short/stocky fit. Whimsy says: “Simone’s shirts have a close, European fit. As a short mesomorph (I’m rudely built: lots of bumps, humps and lumps), such a close fit makes all the difference in my profile. They’ve truly spoiled me: My other made to measure shirts can feel loose and blousey in comparison, and off the rack shirts tend to make me feel like I’m wearing a pirate shirt that once belonged to John Goodman.” [Affected Provincial’s Almanack]

Loden Dager checked in with yours truly this week to let me know about their sample sale (I missed it today; but you can still catch it tomorrow). Way back in the summer, I was intrigued by the “bumfreezer” they did for Uniqlo, but was ultimately disappointed that Uniqlo didn’t size it in XS. Apparently it’s Uniqlo’s policy (not Loden Dager’s) to only run designer-label collabs in S/M/L. Still, once bitten…

So for this sale, I asked if they had good short-guy stuff on hand, and they assured me that “you’ll find our fits and sizing to be flattering to various statures.” Hmm. Racked suggests otherwise, claiming the sale “should only be considered if you are above a size medium and/or a fan of seersucker jackets” and “Extra large and large were the dominant sizes in button-down shirts and jackets. Similarly, most pants and shorts ranged from size 34-36, but there were a few smaller sizes scattered about.” (Sigh. You’d think that manufacturers would look at their sale racks — perennially overburdened with Ls and XLs with nary an XS in sight — and think: ‘Ya know, maybe we should ratchet up the Smalls and Extra Smalls a bit, tone down on those XXLs.’ What am I missing?). However, Racked did say “if you’re in the market for a parka, the selection was pretty good.” I dunno. Sounds kinda meh. The deets: Loden Dager menswear Fall 2008 sample sale Wednesday and Thursday, 12-7pm. Blazers, dress shirts, vests, trousers, cashmere sweaters, deluxe sea island cotton tees, and warm coats. 147 West 29th Street, Fifth Floor, New York, NY 10001. [Racked]

Finally, it’s football weather out there. So, though it may be a bit of a stretch, according to this newspaper article, there’s a rising trend of “short” QBs in the NFL. Like pint-size New Orleans QB Drew Brees, “who tops out at 6-foot tall and weighs only 209 pounds. ‘Ever since I came out of high school I always heard, ‘He’s too short, not enough arm,’ all those things.’” [Topeka Capital-Journal]

Apologies for the lack of posts here recently. It’s been a month of Sundays (as my dad would say). Anyway, I’m hoping to get back to a more regular schedule now (working on future posts about jeans, sweaters, MTM dress shirts, small furniture, American Apparel, Rahm Emanuel).

In the meantime, here are a couple of questions from Short Shrifted readers that I’d love to get your help with. If you have any advice for these guys, please leave comments on this post. Much obliged.

Jack asks:
Any tips for short broke college kids shopping in the city? It’s not the best place to try shopping on a college budget when your clothes have special requirements. L-XXXXXL is all you find in the sales rack, as you’ve clearly stated before. American Apparel is the cheapest place I’ve found that does XS but they’ve got that whole hipster stigma going against them.

Michael wonders:
I am 5′5″ and 130 pounds slim Asian. I have been in the city for a year and have not moved much of my clothes. But, I need a nice suit for a event in two weeks. I am really not a fashion guy (mainly because its difficult finding well fitted clothes). I went to Barneys and the guy was a little rude and said I needed a 34 maybe a slim 36, but told me they did not have anything. I was surprised, but they were busy. Then went to Peter Elliot and they said it would take at least 21 days for a made to order size, although they were very nice… If you were me, where would you go or call in NYC to resolve this issue?

A Men’s Voguer sounds off on suit-hunting when you’re 5-foot-6. He asks “Who wants to hear the ‘No, no, no’ I generally get in suit departments?”. ‘Best to avoid those,’ one salesman says as my hand brushes a handsome plaid. ‘Solids or the more subtle patterns will give you height.’ Yeah, right.” And laments “it’s always the same advice for short guys.” Well said. According to him, the following suit brands are standouts for short guys: Dolce & Gabbana’s “Martini” style, Ralph Lauren Black Label, Dior, and Jimmy Au. (Thanks to Sheikh for passing this link on to me) [Men’s Vogue]

Thinking more about what Steve Cardino said about short men shopping the Boys department. How if you’re small enough to check out those clothes, you’re going to find “so many of the brands that have been Mens and Young Mens have moved into Boys.” Well, Men’s Vogue also recently did a rundown of “classy” kids’ stores. So while the particular duds pictured might not be exactly what you’re looking for (and I think part of it is the stylist’s treatment for this photo shoot), the brands mentioned might start you in the right direction. [Men’s Vogue]

You know how hard it is to part with that one perfect-fitting shirt that’s starting to fray. Well, here’s another reason (besides fit) to invest in custom dress shirts: collars and cuffs can usually be replaced. [A Suitable Wardrobe]

If you’re ever out Oregon way (or you happen to live in the Pacific Northwest), Duchess Clothiers might have some nice tailored bits and bobs to snazz you up. A lofty thinker (who’s also firmly tethered to terra firma thanks to his short stature) recently checked out their new showroom in Portland, OR (check out his tantalizing digitypes). Pieces from Duncan Quinn, Seize sur Vingt mingle with Duchess’ own men’s line (and they also offer relatively on-the-cheap MTM suiting).

Lord Whimsy ends the post musing on the intersection of Wall Street and High Street:

In these times, few of us can afford big ticket items. But buying a small but beautifully crafted item like a great little pocket square, cool socks, or a handcrafted wallet can be a inexpensive but potent morale booster. It’s a good way to give your look a lift without breaking the bank. The savagery of this economy need not make savages of us, after all.

[Affected Provincial’s Almanack]

Joel Thibodeau is the 5-foot-3 singer/songwriter behind the indie-folk act Death Vessel, whose brand-new record “Nothing Is Precious Enough for Us” was just released on Sub Pop [Listen to “Bruno’s Torso” MP3].

In the past, Death Vessel has opened for acts like Low, Calexico, Iron & Wine, Jose Gonzalez, St. Vincent and Gillian Welch. Catch him in November, when he’ll be opening for The Sea & Cake. I hope to see him on October 22, 23, or 24 in NYC, when he’ll be playing with a full backing band. I’ve been a fan ever since seeing a live performance in Portland, Maine, back in 2003. I’ve been looking for an opportunity to share my love of his music with folks, so here it is.

This weekend, I interviewed Thibodeau. We talked about thrift stores, his eternal quest for pair of jeans that fit a 27-inch waist, the ups and downs of shopping eBay, shortscale guitars, musical inspirations, a possible future recording project with Micah Blue Smaldone, his upcoming tour, and his challenge to Levi Strauss & Co. The denim retailer is co-sponsoring the Fader magazine show he plays in NYC on October 23, and apparently has asked for all the performers’ measurements. So Levi’s, if you’re listening: give this man some jeans that actually fit!

On to the interview (height-related questions first, followed by music-related stuff):

SHORT SHRIFTED: Both of us grew up in southern Maine. I’m 5-foot-5 and I always remember having a hard time there finding clothes that fit well. Besides the Gap, my go-to place was the Salvation Army. What was your experience?

JOEL THIBODEAU: Well clothing sucks when you’re around 5-foot-3. So it’s probably even harder for me. I feel like 5-foot-6 or 7 is the breaking point for people who are designing clothes. When I was in high school that’s when I first started finding clothes in thrift stores. I was definitely shopping at Salvation Army but there was a point in time where there was kind of a ‘derelict’ idea about fashion and just wearing whatever looked goofy. ‘Look at this crazy hat I found at the thrift store’ as opposed to as opposed to it being an attractive thing [laughs].

But once I started to think ‘what’s going to fit well for a certain occasion?’ or whatever I started to realize I was in a very in-between sort of size. And I think it’s gotten worse since I got out of high school. Maybe in the past 10, 15 years.

Do you think it’s that your standards are getting higher or do you think there are less options for you now?

I think it’s less options. Because the division between what younger and older people are wearing [has increased]. For awhile I’d go to the Salvation Army and I’d buy Boy’s pants because that would be what fit. Levi’s used to make pants that were called ‘Student Fit’ [laughs] and I don’t think they have any such thing anymore. There wasn’t as much distinction between, say, a Boy’s pair of pants and a Men’s as far as the cut goes. They were definitely the same kind of pants. Whereas now if you go to the Boy’s section of a major box store or dept. store, it’s a very different style. They’re not really interchangeable anymore.

What do you have the hardest time finding?

Pants. I’m about a 27/28-inch waist so I can’t fit into the smallest Men’s pants. My experience has been – especially with jeans because that’s pretty much what I wear – is that once they start getting down to those lower sizes, they don’t really proportionally tailor the pants to a smaller size. So instead of bringing everything about the size down proportionally, they’ll just cut the pant leg shorter [laughs]. So you get these huge pockets and these big, wide legs on these pants that will maybe fit your waist and maybe fit the length of your legs. And I think that Levi’s is one of the worst offenders with this. I like their jeans. But they just don’t really fit me anymore.

Pants or dress slacks, I can bring them in to get hemmed. But denim jeans are kind of a different thing. People just aren’t used to tailoring those kinds of things.

Read the rest of this entry »

Here’s a handful of little bits and bobs that I’ve been bookmarking over the last month. None of them can really be spun into a full post, so I thought I’d itemize them here for your reading pleasure:

John McCain (5-foot-7) appears to be taking Alan Au’s sartorial advice. [HuffPo]

A bunch of ShSh readers are psyched that Brit High Street clothier Topshop is opening in NYC. Unfortunately, it’s been delayed. They did manage to launch the online shop for US customers, though. [Shophound]

Not sure how short the hem is on these, but Andy Tarradath swears by Urban Outfitter’s $14 Bull Dog fitted tees. [The Moment]

Plaid jackets are back. And Urban Outfitters has one that looks pretty short (”26 inches from shoulder to hem”). [See Jack Shop]

Critical Shopper checks out the Thom Browne store in Tribeca and find a cardigan that “seemed two sizes too small, and the cuffs landed on my forearms.” Bad for Mike Albo; good for us. [NY Times]

And don’t forget to check out my Flickr set of Macy’s photos if you haven’t already. [Short Shrifted]

Here’s Part 2 of my Q&A with Steve Cardino, the 5′6″ Men’s Fashion Director at Macy’s. Recently, Steve took me on a tour through the Men’s Department at their flagship store in Herald Square. Below, Steve discusses sizing trends, specific brands that work for short guys, short celebs, and shopping in the Boys Dept.

SHORT SHRIFTED: There are so many Extra Large specialty stores for men, and there are so many petite departments for women. Do you think Macy’s itself — or stores in general — will ever have a smaller men’s section?

STEVE CARDINO: It’s a good question. I think most stores would feel that they speak to the customer to some degree with Slim Fit, Shorts, and European brands. It would be interesting to see. What I find kind of curious is the stores where we sell a disproportionate amount of small sizes are also the stores where we tend to sell most of the better European brands. So I have just decided that men who are shorter have better taste [laughs].

You’re sort of forced into it in a way.

You’re absolutely right. That’s a very good point: You don’t have an option in some cases to do it if you want something that hangs on you like it hangs on the showroom model.

Are there any shorter men – in Hollywood, pop culture, politics – that you see as style icons?

I never realize with some of the celebrities, how small they are. Like I didn’t know Tom Cruise is like 5’8”. I had no idea. Johnny Depp. Even Ryan Seacrest, he’s a small guy as well. And god bless Ryan Seacrest. There he was every Tuesday night on TV in a skinny tie and a new slim-fit suit. It was absolutely terrific.

I think a lot of these people are very small and we don’t realize it. And they certainly look great. But again, it’s what we’ve been talking about: the nuances in the tailoring. And how it’s put together. They’re wearing clothes that fit. And granted, in a lot of cases they’re wearing very expensive clothes. But I think in a lot of cases it’s still possible to put some of the looks together.

Fashion exists at every level of the market. It really gives everybody the opportunity [to look good] at every price point. And let’s face it, what people do today is mix and match. That Gautier jacket that I bought at the Barneys warehouse sale? I wore it over a T-shirt and I wanted a black fringe scarf. I went to H&M and spent $7. It was for one night; it was fine! [laughs]

Although my blog is generally more focused on shorter and slimmer, do you have any advice for the shorter, heavier gentleman?

Unfortunately, I think that customer needs to focus on an American cut as opposed to European cut. And as a result of that their alteration issues may be even a little more profound. Because at least some of the slimmer companies that are doing a more tailored product have shortened up the sizes a little bit. Whereas the American is a little more “classic.” And I think there you might have the tailoring. But you need to just factor that into the cost of whatever you’re buying, and just know that that’s what it’s going to be. Like sometimes I look at something that I find on sale – 25% off. But I know it’s going to be 25% to tailor it. So you try to balance it out and think about it.

And also if you’re larger you would want larger lapels…

Right. Also, flat-front pants seems to work well on a shorter, slimmer guy. Whereas if you’re heavier, you want the fullness of pleats.

I know I probably shouldn’t do this but for some reason I equate short to thin, but short men may be heavier. Knowing where you fit in here [gestures to torso] is a good thing. You can understand the brands that work for you… There are certain brands that I can go to that I know all the time I’m going to pretty much be OK.

And those brands are?

Hugo Boss Red Label is a bit slimmer all over by and large. The proportions are just a lot cleaner. Our own Alfani Red. Theory. INC. Will I have a problem in sleeve length? Yeah, but I have that everywhere. But I know it’ll work through [the torso]. I stay away from Ralph Lauren because it’s more of an American fit, it’s a boxier cut. But I should point this out even though I’m sure some of your readers know: Ralph Lauren polos come in different fits. A lot of guys don’t realize that, and they end up buying what they think is the only thing available.

What other trends work well with a short build?

The cardigan is a very important silhouette for the fall season. I think it’s a terrific silhouette. I buy as many as I can get because I hate wearing jackets at work. They’re so easy, you just throw it on in the morning, it’s so terrific. I tend to stay away from pattern and go to solids or go to something classic with a piping. The nice thing, too, about a cardigan is I can wear this out on the weekend, too, over a T-shirt and with denim. Or under a jacket which was a big runway direction.

So what brands do you like for cardigans?

The same brands that I mentioned before. Hugo Boss, Theory, INC. But then I also tend to watch — and customers need to pay attention to — those brands that do modern or slim fit. French Connection is a great brand because they tend to be a little slimmer. Basically any of the brands that are modeling themselves on European houses tend to be a little slimmer and a little smaller.

Here’s Iceberg. It’s a brand out of Italy. You can see how clearly they speak to Slim Fit. It’s not an inexpensive sort of a shirt. We’re working on a new line out of Amsterdam that we’re going to be carrying in the spring called Cold Method where I was looking at the sizing and usually model sizes are a Medium, and I was like give me that, I want to try that on. And it barely fit me. It was too small. So we’re sizing up two sizes.

I’ve only been in Men’s for five years now. I cannot tell you the amount of companies now that are not only doing Extra Larges but XXLs and XXXLs. As a whole the population’s getting bigger. So it becomes a challenge. And what I always tell the planners is: Whenever I go to a clearance rack I don’t see any Smalls. I never see any Smalls.

I was going to bring that up. On sale racks, there’s always 5 billion XLs, a lot of Larges, a few Mediums, and only one or two Smalls or Extra Smalls. Clearly they’re selling! And it’s like: If you’re comfortable having this many XLs on the leftover rack, why can’t you up the production of the Smalls just a little bit?

I think it’s an education process. I try and champion it here. With our planners I say, especially with the true fashion brands, you’ve got to [include smaller sizes].

Now the unfortunate thing is, to my knowledge, nobody makes a casual dress shirt that comes in lengths. We’ve all had that issue where you go to tuck something into your pants and you’re dealing with fabric down to here. So again, it’s just a matter of finding those brands that work for you.

I guess there are probably some guys where a 14½ neck is too big. Then I think you honestly [need to consider the Boys Department]. Up until about eight years ago I used to go to the Boys Dept. I used to buy Boys sizes like 18s to 20s.

So, for guys checking out the Boys Dept., are you aware of any brands right now that seem age-appropriate for adults?

One of the things that’s happened in the Boys industry is that so many of the brands that have been Mens and Young Mens have moved into Boys. If you go up to the kids floor, you’re going to see Polo, Tommy, Calvin, Guess – you’re going to see all the same brands. There are very few brands that are just children’s brands, unless it’s more of an infant thing (Osh Kosh, etc.).

» Read the rest of this entry »

As Men’s Fashion Director at Macy’s, Steve Cardino charts the course each season for men’s clothing in all of the chain’s 800 U.S. retail stores. Although Cardino looms large in the fashion world, he also happens to stand 5-foot-6: “properly proportioned” as he calls it. As such, he’s uniquely qualified to offer us some great advice.

Recently, Steve took me on a tour through the Men’s Department at the Macy’s flagship store in Herald Square. We talked about problems men under 5′8″ face shopping for clothes, current trends that favor us, the importance of alterations, specific brands that work for short guys, shopping in the Boys Dept., and more. (Thanks to the many Short Shrifted readers who wrote in with questions for Steve)

You can see all the photos on Flickr.

SHORT SHRIFTED: Hi Steve. So what’s going on with clothing options for short guys these days?

STEVE CARDINO: I think the challenge that all of us face – and when I say all of us I mean guys that are not really tall — is that there’s been such a move in the apparel industry toward standardization. It’s simply easier from a SKU maintenance point of view. Like right now all of the neckwear we carry on our floor is 57 inches in length. Now, it’s a standard sort of a size. The neckwear buyer tells me a few years ago it was actually 59 so it has gotten a little shorter, but it’s not like most of the neckwear companies you see here are making special sizes. We do carry special sizes in the dress shirt component, which really translates into sleeve length (that’s really important). But I’m always amazed at the number of men that don’t realize that dress shirts come in [different] sleeve lengths.

What’s interesting to me is that it seems like everyone has their shirts too big, their sleeves too long. I’m not even talking about just short guys. And the big trend now is the shirt-sleeve roll.

And I think they only do that to compensate. There’s that, and then there’s always that guy in the dress shirt that’s got three yards of fabric back here because he doesn’t realize that you can buy a modern, trim-fit dress shirt. But I think in general, most guys, whether short or tall, don’t buy clothes that are size appropriate. It makes it harder for people that are our size. And I think you almost have to accept the fact that some degree of tailoring has to be factored into your thought when you purchase. I mean, I have yet to buy a suit – whether it was $500 or $1200 – that I didn’t have to spend $100 on having tailored.

I guess for people our size, it’s not possible to live an entirely off-the-rack lifestyle. But if you’re a guy that’s on a budget, what do you invest in off-the-rack and what do you get tailored?

I personally believe that there are certain things in life that are crazy to spend a lot of money on. One of them is luggage. Why would you ever spend a lot of money on luggage and give it to the airline? The second thing is men’s dress shirts – if you’re like me and you send them out. Because invariably after two times out they come back and the buttons have cracked…

That just happened to me actually.

So for me, I try to spend what I consider a moderate amount of money knowing that they have a very short shelf life. But in terms of where I spend is on professional [items], for work. To your earlier point: on a casual shirt, you can roll the cuff up. On a sweater you can cuff that, too. Most pants you have to have tailored in length anyway, I mean most guys have to have pants tailored. Tie? Depending. Sometimes you can spend $100 on a tie but you can buy a $30 tie that looks just as good.

A few years ago when I started trying to dress a little bit better, I bought a few expensive ties from Barneys and different places. They were fine, but they were usually too long. So either you have to have them tailored or they end up hanging in my closet.

Or you have to stuff the fabric in your pants. Yep, I’ve done that.

What I’ve found is eBay. I just go and get these vintage ties. They always say the length and the width. And a lot of them are much shorter.

But your question earlier about where to spend the money was really a good one. Because it can’t be everywhere. Definitely the suit. To spend any amount of money on a suit, especially if you’re going to spend a decent amount on it (say $500-$700), and not have it tailored? You’re not spending your money smartly.

So when you buy a suit and you know you’re going to have to do some alterations on it, what are you looking for in terms of fit kind of off the rack and what can you work with?

Well, most suits come in Short, Regular and Long. If I buy a Short, I’m usually OK with the length. I seem to have short arms, so I usually always have to have the sleeve length taken up. So what I’m always watching is: Where is the button placement on that sleeve? Is the tailor going to have enough to work with? Or if you’re really spending more you get working buttonholes. And also the fit through [the chest]. Usually the shoulders fit OK. And a man can usually judge that. But most men don’t realize a suit should sort of skim the body. You don’t want it to hug, but it shouldn’t hang like a box. You should have some shape once you’re in a suit. So a suit is something I would definitely always spend money on. A sport jacket, too. Every few years I seem to spend an absurd amount of money on a navy blue blazer. But you get a great navy blue blazer and you look phenomenal.

So invest in a few key pieces that fit great (or are perfectly tailored)?

Yes. On my first trip to Europe, I commented to someone in our Italian office on how incredible Italian men dressed. And the woman in our office over there said, ‘That’s because Italian men would rather have two phenomenal sweaters than 10 so-so sweaters.’ And it’s that mentality: You want a few pieces that are special.

You’ve talked in an article I read about this trend, you called it ‘the rock-star trend’ – Band of Outsiders, Thom Browne, all that stuff [that fits short, slim men so well]. Do you see that continuing for a while?

I definitely do. In fact, I’m working on Macy’s Fall ’09, I’m calling it Here Comes the Son, and it’s still that rock-star vibe. The influences are the vest, the velvet jacket, that short-waisted leather jacket (that same high waist that we saw downstairs, only in leather), the three-piece suit over a patterned shirt. But it’s a three-piece suit worn as sportswear as opposed to being worn as tailored clothing, so it’s an entirely different vibe. But the accessories really make the difference. So the jacket lapels are getting narrower, the ties are getting narrower, the collars are narrower.

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