Reader Question: What kind of collar looks best?
Spread collars are a big trend these days. But that got one Short Shrifted reader wondering just what kind of a collar is most flattering to a short man’s physique?:
I just discovered your site and really appreciate all the great articles and advice. As a 5′ 3″ slim guy, I’m always looking for all the advice I can get about how to look my best given my short stature (or, at the very least, not to look bad). I’m looking to buy a few new dress shirts and was wondering if you had any thoughts on whether an Ainsley (4″ spread) or forward point (3″ spread) collar is best for a lean, short guy.
–Jay, Boston
I don’t know that I have a clearcut answer for Jay here.
My guess is that more important than height in this case is the size/shape of your head/neck. Everything I’ve read about collars (and ties) talks about how this area is the focal point of your entire outfit and works to draw attention to — underscore, if you will — your face. So it’s probably a good idea to match your collar to that handsome mug of yours. Here’s one custom shirtmaker’s take.
As far as height factors into it, another site suggests for “Short & Stocky” types… “the traditional straight point collar is the shirt of choice, as it provides an excellent counterpoint to the natural build.” But this tailor goes on to suggest the following for the “Short & Slim” types: “When considering mens’ suits, the jacket cut should pick up where the body leaves off, moving the dimensions towards a more triangular appearance: broader at the shoulders and narrower at the waist.” Although this is advice for choosing a suit jacket, as a short and slim guy, the whole inverted-triangle thing has always resonated with me. And I guess it’s why I’ve always been attracted to collars with a substantial (though not extreme) spread.
For me, I want lines pointing up (peak lapels on jackets) and out (spread collars on shirts) near the top part of my body. I think they help lengthen my body or, at the very least, broaden my chest and shoulders. Although point collars do offer more of a “vertical” line, I can’t help but see them as something that “points” — as the name suggests. And where they seem to point is down. Not a direction a short man wants to emphasize.
That’s my take on it. But my advice on this one is hardly definitive (whether you choose spread or point, there are many variations of each). I’d love to hear what other people think.
What advice would you give Jay? What kind of collars do you wear and why? And how does head/neck/build play into the decision?
July 4th, 2008 at 11:20 am
Face shape is important, so is neck length and a bunch of other factors. But most important – on a shorter guy – is point length. Whether it’s traditional point or a spread collar, you want to avoid anything that looks out of proportion to your body.
Look for collars with a point length no longer than 2 3/4 inches long. 2 1/2 inches would be ideal for most.
Once you nail down point length, you can choose the type of collar based on your face shape and features.
I generally avoid recommending button down “oxford type” collars. I’ve found that on my shorter clients they look too base and elementary. Not a good look if you are going for presence.
Hope this helps.
July 4th, 2008 at 12:53 pm
I made the mistake of having a Brooks Brothers shirt custom-made with a relatively high collar. Consistent with your thoughts, it was too high for my neck and looked pretty bad. They were great about doing it over, but I won’t make that mistake again.
July 7th, 2008 at 7:53 pm
Robin — thanks for illuminating the whole point-length angle. I hadn’t even thought of that, but it makes perfect sense to me now. Great advice. Not sure that I agree with you about the button-down collar thing, though, but I can see your argument.
July 8th, 2008 at 1:32 am
re: point length, don’t most dress shirts have point length that’s proportional to the shirt size anyway? if it’s unusually longer, it’s more likely to be a casual shirt.
i still think that face shape is the most important factor, only because the collar is too close to the face and it practically frames it. that applies to everyone, but for shorter guys the cut, fit and proportion of the shirt and/or suit, as well as the design/pattern, are probably more important than the collar type.
that said, i tend to favor spread collars (regular and english, mostly). i have a long-ish face, and also spreads probably help me look wider (i’m skinny).