Short Arm Inspection
This is a guest post by Tintin, creator of the blog The Trad.
While my Norwegian grandfather was over 6′, he married my Polish grandmother who was 3′2″ — so both my Dad (5′8″) and myself (5′8 3/4″) fall under 5′9″. I always knew I was short. That, I couldn’t stop being reminded of. But my real problem was short arms.
Growing up I had my ass kicked more times than I can recall. I couldn’t figure it out for the longest time. People could always hit me but I could never land a punch. Now I know I lost a lotta fights because I had (and still do) short arms. It caused me to take Judo lessons and I got up to third-degree brown belt before a girlfriend turned out to be a lot more fun.
While the army’s infamous “Short Arm Inspection” had disappeared by the time I joined, the stories were still around. There a lot of ways to lose your dignity in the army but nothing I ever experienced comes close to someone pulling on your johnson while you stand in formation.
But this ain’t that kind of inspection.
My arms (L-31.5, R-32) were never much of a problem in the states. Shirt manufacturers in the US have been good about providing an array of sleeve lengths. But go to the UK and it’s a different story. Each neck size offers one sleeve length, sometimes two (Regular and Long). The fellas I worked with at Lloyds of London either wore sleeve garters or they just let fabric hang down over the cuff.
I tried the garters but couldn’t stand them. Wasn’t big on The Gambler look. However, should you wish to evoke a River Boat Gambler aesthetic these folks can help:
* J Press
* Cable Car Clothiers
* Albert Thurston
But no, they’re weren’t for me. So my first solution was to have the sleeves shortened by a tailor. In London this can get expensive (hence the garters) but here in the states any alterations counter at your dry cleaners can do it for 10 bucks or so.
I have also rolled the cuff back and buttoned it much like a double cuff with the existing button. This looks pretty bad by itself, so it’s better hidden with a sweater.
My best fix is simple, cheap, and looks great. Say I stumble across a nice shirt on sale but the sleeves are too long. I buy the shirt anyway — and roll the sleeves up. Yeah, it makes it a casual shirt but it works for me. I do not roll up my sleeves past my elbow as the hip like to do today. That’s a look I associate with truck drivers, convicts and grits. Just a couple turns will get me to the middle of my forearm. Which pretty much suits my middle-of-the-road mindset.
June 7th, 2010 at 3:00 pm
Unfortunately I have the exact opposite problem. I am 5′8″ with the arms of a gorilla–my arms are between 34 and 35.” (Yeah I didn’t get hit as often as most other short guys because my reach is really deceiving.) I say go MTM and just keep swatches of the fabrics you like and have them made for you. MyTailor is a great alternative with excellent pricing.
June 7th, 2010 at 4:08 pm
I too have short arms, at least in comparison to my larger neck. Every shirt I get has gotten a $10 hackjob from my dry cleaner and a once in a while, they cut it too short (how is that possible when you measure it ON me?!). Thoes I keep, but I always wear rolled up.
Love the blog, keep it up!
June 7th, 2010 at 4:12 pm
Gerard- Your arms are half your height. That’s what we called a knuckle dragger in the army. I like MTM and have had decent luck with Individualized. Just tried another made in the US, MTM company and didn’t have good luck at all. So I just may give your suggestion a try. Thanks.
June 7th, 2010 at 4:31 pm
jk- Thanks for the nice words. A good alterations tailor ain’t easy to find. I like Mr Peppino in NYC. I had a Greek when I lived in Chicago who was fantastic. At 910 LSD. I never found anyone worth a darn when I lived in Florida.
June 7th, 2010 at 9:41 pm
I exhibit the opposite condition–long arms, which are great for rowing, tennis, squash, and punching douchebag jocks in the face. I need at least a 36″ sleeve length, and, with shrinkage, sometimes more. My tailor tells me that shortening long sleeves is a far easier operation than extending short ones, and on this subject I believe him.
June 7th, 2010 at 11:59 pm
You and your Army stories. (thats a pun)
I always had shorter sleeves because of extra broad shoulders… which meant fewer people even threw punches at me let alone landed any.
June 8th, 2010 at 6:59 am
LBT- I usually just kick people and run.
Brohammas- I have no shoulders. No chin either. And short arms. Life just isn’t fair.
June 8th, 2010 at 4:46 pm
Nice. Men with short arms.
Never thought about this as an issue.
Since men generally have waaaaay more measurement choices than women, in mass manufacturing.
Love reading these men’s fashion blogs.
Thanks, tintin.
June 8th, 2010 at 8:09 pm
I am the same size. There are two options. One: buy from Brooks Brothers, J.Press etc. who carry exact sleeve sizes Two: have them tailored, but remember there are three ways they can do this. The tailor can remove the sleeve at the shoulder (Option A the best option) cut, and reattach. This is great because the gusset part of the sleeve stays the same length and where the sleeve narrows at the wrist will still be gradual. The tailor can also shorten the sleeve at the cuff (Option B). I hate this because the gusset looks short and odd. Finally, the tailor can (Option C) remove the wrist part and that whole gusset piece and move the whole thing up. It works too, but option A seems to look the most natural.
June 10th, 2010 at 7:36 am
Those Tricks- Amazing isn’t it?
anon- I don’t find many dry cleaners willing to do Option A. Not many tailors anymore either. Option B is a horrible way to do it but Option C works well for me and is the $10 solution I mentioned.
June 10th, 2010 at 4:14 pm
I have fairly short arms, but I’ve always had the most trouble with neck sizes. My IDEAL neck size is 14 1/2, which you can’t find anywhere.
June 14th, 2010 at 6:57 am
J Press and Brooks? Sounds good to me. 32″ is where I fall in the short arm category…I hate the 32/33 shirts you find at most stores. A tighter cuff does not do it for me.
I need 32′ sleeves. The best place I’ve found to deliver these shorties over and over is Lands End.
June 15th, 2010 at 9:42 am
Michael- I was a 14 1/2 in the army. They had plenty. Mercer carries 14 1/2 and while the shirt is expensive it’s a darn good value. Better than some MTM I’ve come across.
BLF49 – My right arm is a half inch shorter than my left and a 33″ drives me bonkers.
June 15th, 2010 at 10:26 am
Michael – Try Eljos as well. I always forget about ‘em but they’re great folks. Here’s a 14 1/2 oxford button down for $65. Not bad.
http://www.eljos.com/shop/prod_detail.php?product=97