Archive for April, 2010

Visit My New Lookbook on Blogger

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

I’m trying something new. An experiment of sorts…

Every Friday here on this site, I’ll post a link to my new Tumblr Blogger photoblog. My idea is to put together a lookbook of shorter guys with good or interesting personal style. From the images I collect, maybe you can draw inspiration for your own wardrobe.

Shortshrifted.com will still be my HQ, updated with all the posts you’ve come to expect. The Tumblr Blogspot series is a side-project — I’m hoping it’ll handle images better and be good for keeping them together in one place.

Check out my kick-off post for Short Shrifted’s Concise Men’s Lookbook:

TONY FROM 21 UP

Our Tony’s an East End boy, a diminutive scrapper with a heart of gold, an irrepressible hustler, a self-described pest. A failed jockey (“Better to be a has-been than a never-was”), but a dreamer nonetheless, cramming The Knowledge so he can become a London cabbie. It’s 1977, but he’s pure 1955 in James Dean knock-offs. It’s not the clothes; it’s the spirit.

And he’s just one character in Michael Apted’s brilliant decades-spanning documentary series Up! — a must-watch in my book.

After you visit the Lookbook, let me know what you think of the project/design/layout/images/etc!

Cheers,
Josh

The Most Exciting Two Minutes in Short Men’s Fashion

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010

New York, London, Milan, Paris… Louisville. If there’s one moment all year when short-men’s fashion is thrust into the international spotlight, it’s the Kentucky Derby. And the 136th running of the derby is this Sunday, May 1.

To be a professional jockey, you’ve got to stand somewhere between 5 feet and 5′7″, be in peak physical condition, and be willing to face a high possibility of concussions, bone fractures, arthritis, trampling, paralysis, or even death. You damn well better look good doing it.

So between your bet-making, julep-swilling, your jumping up and down this Sunday, make sure to get an eyeful of these dandies in their eye-popping silks perched on top of those thoroughbreds everybody’s all excited about.

Check out this great slideshow of jockeys from LIFE Magazine’s photo archives:

Would You Ever Shop in the Boys Dept?

Saturday, April 17th, 2010

NYC fashion-and-otherwise writer Elliott David (StreetPeeper pix of him here, here, and here) just penned a great post about shopping the Ralph Lauren Kids store for T Magazine:

My brother, our father and his father are all just a little bit taller than shotguns, and wear suits as tight as barbed wire, sharp edged as bullet holes. The fact that I shattered the family height record doesn’t stand for much: I’m 5-foot-9-ish on a really good day. So how’s a bred-for-bespoke fella supposed to pay for fancy garb without two dimes to rub together?

Ralph Lauren Kids. I swear to God.

The fit is fantastic and the quality is just as good as Ralph Lauren’s other lines, but Polo Kids is half the price. If you’re around my height, able to fit into a [U.S. 38] or smaller, appreciate/can work with early Thom Browne sleeve lengths (about 23 inches, before things got real severe) and fancy a permanent 50 percent discount, you’d be wise to try on a jacket for yourself.

Read his full post on the NY Times site.

elliott-david

When I interviewed Steve Cardino of Macy’s way back, he talked about this trick, too:

I used to go to the Boys Dept. I used to buy Boys sizes like 18s to 20s.

One of the things that’s happened in the Boys industry is that so many of the brands that have been Men’s and Young Men’s have moved into Boys. If you go up to the kids floor [at Macy's], you’re going to see Polo, Tommy, Calvin, Guess – you’re going to see all the same brands. There are very few brands that are just children’s brands, unless it’s more of an infant thing (Osh Kosh, etc.).

I’ve definitely shopped in the Boys Dept. (but not for awhile; gotta get back). Before I moved to NYC, there just wasn’t many shopping options in Maine for a man of my stature. So, back in college, I supplemented my Gap XS stuff and Salvation Army finds with trips to the Boys sections at Old Navy and Target.

For literally the same exact shirt, I’d pay half what a guy buying it in a “Men’s” size would. Sure, some brands don’t work for whatever reason — sleeves or crotches or neck sizes are too small, or the style doesn’t translate generationally. But as long as you’re short and moderately slim, you’ll eventually hit on a goldmine — just like Elliott David. There’s really no downside here; just get over any self-consciousness you might feel and go.

So, what I want to know is: How do you feel about shopping in the Boys Dept.? And what brands/stores do you recommend (if any)?

A Short Man’s Shopping Guide to Tokyo & Japan

Monday, April 12th, 2010

This is a guest post by David Shackelford.

Editor’s Note: My own stint in Tokyo was years ago and lasted just a month, so my personal knowledge of the Japanese retail scene is distant and scant. Luckily, longtime Short Shrifted reader David Shackelford is an expert guide. Besides being 5′3″/130 lbs, David spent last year studying at Tokyo’s Waseda University and writes for Japan Trend Shop (full bio at end of post). I’m honored to present his advice here in Short Shrifted’s first-ever guest post.

tokyo

The legends are true. Japan is a clothes-shopping mecca for men under 5′9″. If you’re headed there for business or pleasure, make sure to work in some serious shopping time around your visits to shrines, palaces, onsens, izakayas, love hotels — whatever floats your boat. You’re bound to find clothes that fit you.

Check out my advice below for the best stores to hit, hip fashion districts, a map to Japanese denim spots, and general tips on shopping in Japan.

STORES & LABELS:

  • Uniqlo: I’m not going to say anything more about this chain — you know what it’s about [past blog coverage here, here, and here]. It would be my first stop in Japan for any short guy, though. And at over 700 locations, it’s hard to miss. [Uniqlo]
  • Muji: Limited clothing options, but generally high quality and pretty good fits. More conservative in styling and fit than Uniqlo. [Muji]
  • Green Arrow: Simple designs, nice fabrics. The fit is different than Uniqlo — generally a little roomier and longer. Might be good for people with western chests.
  • WEGO: A cross between Urban Outfitters and a hipster thrift store. This is where you go for funky Harajuku fashion, very “Japanese-looking” clothing at low prices, and novelty wear. Many of the brands only go down to Medium, but they often fit me at 5′3″ and 130 lbs. [WEGO]
  • Daily Taste: Hipster bicyclist fashion. Kind of pricey ($50 shirts, $100-$300 jackets), but excellent quality and very unique style. This label is usually found in department stores.
  • Shibuya 109: There are two 109 stores, one for women and one for men. The men’s is across the street from the station. There are a variety of boutiques inside, and while they vary significantly in quality and pricing, they’re generally more expensive than Harajuku or other shopping districts. There’s a lot of gothwear, jewelry, and pleather, but if you do a little hunting, there’s plenty of well-made, stylish streetwear. [Shibuya 109]
  • Aoki: They have a wide variety of suits, shirts, and other businesswear. Japanese chests are smaller than ours, so muscular guys may have some trouble, but the prices are good. Be warned: Many of the suits, especially the cheap ones, are wool/polyester blends. They’re pretty well made, and great in the summer months, but not designed to be as long-lasting as wool suits. [Aoki]
  • JAPANESE DENIM:

    Note for denimheads: A lot of Japanese denim is cut a little too loose and repro to flatter short guys, but the Skull 5010 and Pure Blue Japan XX-005 are both excellent, fairly low-rise cuts that work on smaller frames. On the other hand, if you don’t want to drop $150+ on a pair of jeans, Uniqlo, H&M, and Edwin all have nice ones between $30 and $100.

    Refer to this Google map to get your fix.

    SHOPPING DISTRICTS:

  • Harajuku: Young, cheap, fashion-forward. [WikiTravel]
  • Shimo-kitazawa: Cute shopping district with lots of little boutiques, restaurants, and even a hookah bar. Strikes me as slightly hippie. [WikiTravel]
  • Asakusa: Free-for-all bazaar. Lots of denim, designer bags, and other brand-name items sold out of tiny shops. [WikiTravel]
  • Takeshita-dori

    TOKYO SHOPPING ITINERARY:

    For an ideal shopping day, I’d start at Shibuya station, then walk across the street to the 109 Building and explore the newest fashions in pointy boots, faux leather, and ostentatious jewelry. Afterward, walk down Inokashira-dori toward Harajuku. The street will make a right at some point and go under the train tracks; follow it as it turns into Meiji-dori. There are some awesome little boutiques along this walk, so take your time and explore. Here’s a Google map link.

    You’ll run into a big intersection. This is the Harajuku neighborhood. Keep walking along Meiji-dori. To your left, you’ll see Takeshita-dori, a long, narrow street filled with young people, cosplayers, and all sorts of outrageous fashion. Because it serves a younger population than most other shopping districts, a lot of the clothes are reasonably priced. If trying to navigate 30 different boutiques seems overwhelming, hang a left shortly after beginning your walk up Takeshita-dori, and go down the stairs into WEGO. It’s got a fairly cheap selection that surveys most of the current adolescent fashions.

    Takeshita-dori runs both ways; take it southeast (to the right of Meiji-dori, coming from Shibuya) for a less crowded shopping district with slightly higher-end boutiques (including Tokyo’s APC store). You can get lost in all the side streets, but when you’re done, go south (a right turn if you’re walking down Takeshita-dori) until you get spit out onto Omotesando-dori. Omotesando is a little rich for my blood, but if you’re into designer labels, you’ll find Prada, LV, Dior, and other stuff up in that price range. It’s also a dangerous place to eat — this is where I saw my first $10 cup of coffee!

    From here, your next stop is up to you. For souvenirs, traditional Japanese goods, and denim, take the train to Asakusa, and then walk to Ueno. If small, funky boutiques are your thing, your next stop should be Shimo-Kitazawa (you’ll need to transfer at Shibuya) or Meguro (just hop the Yamanote line from Harajuku station). If you’re looking for name brands and larger stores, try Shinjuku (also off the Yamanote line).

    GENERAL SHOPPING TIPS FOR JAPAN:

    • Buy a Suica or Pasmo train card. You can do this at the airport or any train station. Don’t think; just do it. Do it. Put 10,000 yen on it for every week you plan on being in Tokyo. This saves you the hassle of calculating the fare on every train hop, plus lets you buy goods in stations and many larger stores by simply touching your wallet to a contact pad. Don’t load it up too much if you’re traveling around the country, because cards only work in the areas they’re issued.
    • Shopkeepers will shout “Irasshaimase!” at you. Usually when you’re entering a store, but occasionally at random, too. It essentially means “welcome,” and there is no mandatory response.
    • Service is top-notch. Employees will hold your things for you, give you advice if asked, and generally flatter the hell out of you.
    • Japan is primarily a cash economy. Credit cards will usually work, but not always, especially in smaller stores. It is not at all unusual to see someone pulling out hundreds of dollars cash for a purchase.
    • No shoes in the dressing room.

    USEFUL VOCABULARY:

    “Kitsui (KEE-TSU-EE)” – too tight
    “Ookii (OH-KEY)” – too big
    “Kaimasu (KAI-MOSS)” – I will buy it
    “Hoka no saizu, arimasu ka (HO-KAH NO SIZE-OO, AREE-MOSS KA)” – do you have this in other sizes?


    Author bio: David Shackelford spent last year at Waseda University in Tokyo. He’s a graduating senior at Lewis & Clark College in Portland, OR, a copywriter for Japan Trend Shop, and also writes a personal blog. David is 5′3″, and mostly shops at Uniqlo, American Apparel, Sierra Trading Post, and Patagonia when he’s stateside.