Short Shrifted

I’ve been bookmarking short-guy-fashion-related forum threads for a long time and thought it’d be nice to weave them all together into one big post. So here goes. There’s some real worthwhile info buried in some of these. And you can also potentially help someone out by answering their query and dropping some knowledge on them (login generally required to post replies). OK, a few of these threads are getting a bit long in the tooth, but all the info is still valid. And after you check these out, remember to come back and build the conversation right here on Short Shrifted by adding your comments on my posts, asking questions, and offering advice, stories, etc. Enjoy:

Where Can I Find a Tux that Fits?: “I’m a short guy who weighs 110lbs and has a 34″ chest. Where can I find a decent tuxedo that fits at a decent price? I’ve been to the local tux rental places – no one has anything to fit me. Nordstroms Rack put me in two Abboud 36S tuxes (one black label, one “Joe”) and both were too large in every measurement. The tailor said he would have to take several inches out of the shoulders and if he *just* did the shoulders, forgetting about the length (too long) of the jacket as well as the sleeves and buttons, it would add $80 to the $350 tux. Or should I just pay $50 for a way-too-big tux on ebay and then spend the other $200 getting it altered?” [MetaFilter]

Help Incorporating Blazers into Wardrobe for Work: “My biggest fit challenges: 99% of sportcoats are too big in the shoulders and baggy in the sleeves. I am a 36s, which I have trouble finding many of while I’m out shopping.” [Ask Andy About Clothes]

Clothes for the Short Guy – Stores, Brands/Lines, Websites: “A thread dedicated to stores/brands and websites that cater to the short guy (under 5′7 applies?) – I’m only 5′5. Anyone else tired of going to stores and spending more time looking for what’s available in your size and then if you like it, rather then clothes you like and then picking out your size? The slim fit thread and others have been pretty helpful but for mainstream stores i still find this a problem.” [Styleforum]

Clothes for the Short Blokes: “Guys, I am one of those short arses that can never find jeans or trousers that will fit off the peg leg length wise. Waist sizes are no problem but I can never find trousers/jeans that I can wear without having to have the leg length taken up and yes, I do mean those ones that are actually made for short guys. I think that my inside leg measurement is somewhere in the region of 28″. Does anyone know where I can get trousers/jeans that are slightly shorter than the standard short, if that makes sense?” [Men's Health UK]

Finding Suits for Short Portly Men is Hell I tell You Pure Hell: “Okay, for whatever reason, I cannot find this information to save my life: In men’s suits, what is the typical length for a “short” (as in not regular or long) suit jacket? For a regular jacket? Is there a range of typical lengths? I know, by the way, that some suits are made custom, but there are also plenty of suits that are bought off-the-rack, and that’s really what I’m interested in. Bonus points: Send me to a resource that has a veritable cornucopia of this information — arm length to jacket length to chest width . . . and I will send you cookies.” (Short Shrifted cannot verify the sunset date of the cookie offer) [MetaFilter]

Can a Short Man Wear a Double-Breasted Suit?: “I tend to think that anyone can wear a double-breasted suit, even the shorter of us, so long as you’ve got the right build. It seems that leaner is better in that regard. But how lean is lean enough? I’m not skinny, but far from fat, too. To be precise: 5′4″, 135 lbs, 38-inch chest, 18-inch shoulders, 29-inch waist, gigantic head. Too stocky, too short, plain unimaginable?” [Styleforum]

An Interesting Article from Today’s NY Times Styles Section: “Quote: ….shoulders tend to be scaled to linebacker dimensions on suits whose labels say 38 Small, where blazers have armholes the size of kiddie pools, where shirt pockets float just above the waistband and where belts often wrap around one’s waist like a lariat. ….shirttails hang so ridiculously long that short men are sometimes forced to tuck them beneath the crotch in the manner of onesies. Zippers on jeans are so long that waistbands ride above the navel, geek style. Inseams droop so that they leave a wearer with little choice but to roll and cuff like Howdy Doody or else to hack at the hems with the manic vigor of Edward Scissorhands. “Basically it has driven me into the whole bespoke category, as expensive as that may be,” said Robert Burke, the fashion director for Bergdorf Goodman, who stands 5-foot-6 and is given to wearing double-vent suits luxuriantly molded to his trim frame. In the industry Mr. Burke is known as a particularly natty dresser. He should be, considering that much of his wardrobe, shoes included, is custom made.” Is it my imagination that even the regular sizes are getting longer and longer?” [Styleforum]

Where Can I Find Details of the Latest UK “High-Street” Fashion for Men?: “I’m having trouble finding websites showing what’s hot in the high-street fashion world for “normal” men – not those 6′4″, emaciated, androgynous models designers always hire to make their clothes look good. I’m 5′8″, 85Kg, have fair skin, and a bit of a tummy. I know what kind of things to wear to make myself look slimmer but I don’t know what the current trend is. I know it was layers last year, but that’s about as much as I know. Are there any websites/blogs that follow the trends which I can bookmark/subscribe to and keep my style up-to-date?” [MetaFilter]

Remember my PDF guide to short neckties? Well, J. Raffiani specializes in crafting neckties for the shorter man. And though this isn’t exactly a forum, it’s interactive. Jason Rappoport, Raffiani’s honcho, is currently conducting a market-research poll on his LinkedIn page (registration required) that poses the following question: What would you pay for a handmade Italian silk tie just for shorter men?.

There are three timeless things that every men’s barbershop should offer its customers: great haircuts, relaxation, and good conversation. NYC’s Xac Anthony Salon & Spa in Chelsea had all three covered when I went in for an appointment before Thanksgiving (Full disclosure: the owner and some of the stylists are loyal Short Shrifted readers and offered me a free haircut; regular price is $85).

First off, Lennie, the stylist I saw, gave me an excellent chop (it had been ages since my last cut and I was looking pretty mountain mannish). It was easy to relax, too, thanks to the standard complimentary glass of wine (they also do margaritas on Friday nights). And finally, good barbershop banter. Xac Anthony has a bunch of savvy, stylish short guys on the staff — co-owner Anthony Valente (5′6″) and stylists Lennie Vega (5′8″) and Yuval Samburski (5′5″). I learned a lot just shooting the breeze with them — all without leaving my chair.

Anthony Valente, Owner

HAIR
“There’s really no specific hairstyle for short guys. Wear it however you want. The only thing you really need to stay away from is long hair. It draws the eye down. I wouldn’t suggest hair going past the cheekbone… I’d even go as far as the jawline. I guess the only thing I’d recommend for the shorter guy who wants to appear taller is to have height in his hair and we all know nobody wants height in their hair [laughs]. This isn’t the early 90s anymore. I don’t really try to heighten anymore; I’m proud of being 5-foot-6. Nothing I can do about it.”

STYLE
“The best thing to do is focus on a look, a style, a flow. There has to be some sort of unity between your hair, your style, and your clothes — even down to your shoes. I’m sharp, casual, classic. I always go for the classic look. I think it’s great for short people. I’m really into solid colors; not patterns. Everything is form-fitting, tapered. I stay away from baggier pants because the wider you are, the shorter you look.”

STORES
Armani Exchange, Club Monaco: “I’m an athletic build [40-inch chest, 30-inch waist, 28-inch inseam]. I work out, so I usually go for athletic or European cuts. My absolute favorite stores that I’ve found are Armani Exchange, which is fantastic, and Club Monaco. When I have to refresh my wardrobe, those are the two shops I hit up first. Especially when it comes to button-down shirts. I’m wearing Armani Exchange right now [Check out the photo of Anthony above -- he's the guy on the right]. They fit me ideally. They’re tapered nicely through the torso. They give you a lot of room in the shoulder area so they fit my broad shoulders. I wear a Medium and I’m wearing it untucked and the length is perfect. It falls in the perfect place I want it to fall, right at the wrist. Everyone asks me if I get my shirts custom-made or tailored! And they have sales all the time. Except unfortunately, when it comes to sale racks the only thing left usually are like XXXLs, which sucks. But I’ve been fortunate to find stuff. You’ve got to search and dig a lot deeper, but you find it.”

Adriano Goldschmied: “I love their AG7 jeans. They’re great for short guys because they’re form-fitting in the waist. The exception is the length, of course.”

The North Face: “The unfortunate thing about winter is you gotta wear those big, puffy jackets to keep warm. But The North Face is great because they’re not too puffy where I look as wide as I am tall. They’re classic; they’re not trendy, it’s not a fad. Just a good, basic winter jacket.”

G-Star: “I just got a nice G-Star jacket recently. Down, fur hood. It’s a little on the puffy side, but it’s not to bad.”

Lennie Vega, Stylist

STORES
I didn’t have my steno pad out when Lennie was cutting my hair (too busy throwing back that glass of wine), but he suggested a few stores that I hadn’t been tipped off to before: Behavior, Buckler Jeans, and Century 21. I’ll definitely be making a trip to all of these soon.

So, check out Xac Anthony if you’re getting shaggy. Besides sharp scissors, they’ve also got lines on some sharp threads. Need another reason to go? SPECIAL OFFER: Short Shrifted readers get 25% off the cost of their first visit. Just mention this site when you make your appointment.