Short Shrifted

You have one week. One week to scout the location, do recon on merch, and work up a plan of attack. The Steven Alan sample sale starts next Thursday, Nov. 8. and chances are it’s going to be packed. You wouldn’t know it from some of his rumply, hipster-may-care shirts but planning is everything.

A friend of mine who’s been many times shared the following advice:

I get kind of disoriented by the free-for-all setup and I’m not that good at figuring out if something looks good when I have to try it on over my clothes. So it’s worth it to stop by the Tribeca store and try on stuff that you like beforehand. That way you’ll know if it fits if you see it at the sample sale. Not that they put everything on sale.

Even though everything won’t be marked down, there’s guaranteed to be a bunch of good stuff from the smartly curated collection of young, hip designers. But for me, the single best thing about SA is the house brand casual button-downs designed to be worn untucked — as a result, they tend to have seriously short hemlines no matter what the size (XSs have a 32″ sleeve length measured from base of collar, according to the store Web site).

The details, according to MUG:

Up to 80% off at the sample sale from Steven Alan, 87 Franklin [Church/Bway] 212.219.3305, for men, women, and kids. Men’s cotton shirts were $168, now $65. 11/8 and 11/9: 8:30-8, 11/10: 12-7, 11/11: 12-5.

A week ago, the Wall Street Journal took a look at the current state of men’s neckwear in an article called New Neckties Go On a Diet. It’s one of the better news items I’ve seen on the new so-called “skinny ties,” going into a fair amount of detail on comparative sizes between brands and countries, offering specifics on how to match narrower ties to suit lapel width, and featuring a slideshow on tie sizes through the ages.

Reporter Ray A. Smith says that:

Neckties are moving to 3-and-a-half inches at their widest point, at least based on the latest offerings from many major mainstream labels. That’s a narrowing of a quarter inch or more from the width that’s been typical of conservative ties for the past few years. That quarter inch may not sound like much, but on a tie, the difference is more visible than you might expect.

With many of the major brands — Brooks Brothers, Thomas Pink, Jos. A. Bank — finally jumping over to the narrow-gauge track, this several-year-old trend seems to have finally arrived in the mainstream. This is a positive development both for short and for slender men.

Stephen Cardino, men’s fashion director at Macy’s East, says he’s happy with the new look for personal reasons. “I love this trend, personally, because I’m a little guy,” the 5-foot-6 Mr. Cardino said. “The tie doesn’t feel like a chest plate on me anymore.”

For once, the menswear industry makes a move that benefits smaller folks at the cost of larger guys:

Men don’t have to be little or lean to wear a narrow tie, although it could pose a challenge for big men. “A wider man needs the width of a tie to balance his body,” says Robin Walker, a wardrobe consultant in Chicago.

Finally, the WSJ points out that, as with any trend, you have to be careful about looking painfully out of date in a few years. True enough. If you go for a closet full of the ultra-hip spaghetti-thin ties, they’ll probably be punchline-worthy in a few years. But I’m stockpiling the just-ever-so-slightly-skinnier ties now (about 3 inches wide) in preparation for the inevitable return to the “chest plate” widths that have dominated the last few decades. The thing is, even if it becomes trendy to have 4-inch-wide ties again, they’re still just never going to look good on short or skinny men.

“Tie width is a precision game,” quoth the WSJ, and the smaller you are, the more exacting you have to be with your clothing proportions — no matter what the prevailing trend.

Prior to starting my blog, when I was scouring the Internet for information on short men’s clothing, Short Persons Support was one of only a handful of useful resources I found. And certainly the most rewarding. It is by far the largest collection of information related to shortness online: scientific research, essays, media criticism, health issues, helpful links, reading lists and — of most interest to me — a men’s clothing section. There, you’ll find a comprehensive list of short men’s specialty stores and online retailers (with user ratings), reader recommendations of chain stores with decent sizing (even if they don’t cater to short men), links to shoe stores and shoe lift purveyors, and fashion advice.

Steve Goldsmith founded the site in 2000 when he realized there were more sites about red hair than there were about short stature. Recently, I talked to Steve about Short Persons Support:

What was the genesis of your site?

“I was participating in a Usenet discussion group related to height issues. Most of the posts were garbage, there were a lot of flames. But in between all the flames and all the garbage there were some really good bits of information about clothing, statistics, books people could read. But all of that information was going to be lost. So first I spent about a month looking for a site because I didn’t want to duplicate information. There were just a few sites. And the one with most depth was maybe six or seven pages. So I decided to create Short Support.”

How has it grown over the years?

“There are two aspects. The site itself and the community. I get about 10 to 15 e-mails a week. People with questions or just wanting to talk. I kind of consider it more of a support mechanism. As I was growing up, if I ever said anything to anybody about being short they’d just say height doesn’t mean anything. That made me feel like I wanted to be there to validate people. Their problems are not all in their head. And there are ways around them.”

What have you learned through working on your site?

“There are more people concerned about their height than I thought. I knew going into it that there was more than just me. I’ve had e-mail from more than 2,000 people. When I started, there was almost no research, but since then there’s been more research about the sociological aspects of being short.”

It says in your clothing section: “As hard as we tried, we could not find many articles on clothes for the short man.” That’s basically the reason why I created my blog. Why do you think there is such a dearth of information?

“One of the things we discussed initially on the bulletin boards was the disconnect between how tall people and short people see themselves. In this country there are about 100 clubs and about 500 stores for tall people. There is only one organization for short people and a few dozen stores. But human height follows the bell curve, so there are just as many short people as tall people. I think tall people are more comfortable with themselves and being tall. And short people often aren’t. They don’t demand equal treatment and representation.”

Can you tell me about any problems you’ve personally encountered trying to find clothes that fit? Are there any solutions or tips that work for you?

“I’m 5-foot-2, so it has been a constant struggle. Now I buy most of my clothes online. Especially pants. I think the most frustrating times are when I have to find a business suit. I’ll go into a store and they will actually have a few things in my size. Like maybe three. And they’ll be green! The choices are so limited. I used to get my shirts custom made. Everything I buy I get hemmed or modified.”

The Men’s Clothing section on your site is really comprehensive. You’ve got links to all the major specialty stores and online retailers. To me, the most interesting aspect is the user rankings. Are those still active and changing based on user input?

“Yes. It all comes from other people generally; I don’t contribute much to that part of it. It’s not real scientific or anything because there aren’t that many votes. I think the comments there are the most useful.”

Well, thanks for making your Web site, Steve!

Thank you.

A reader (thanks, Mikhail) wrote in last week and pointed me to a great how-to video on slimming down shirts that are too wide. It’s pretty simple. First, put on your shirt inside out. Then get a friend to pinch the extra fabric under your arm and pin it. Repeat all the way down each side. Sew your new seams. You’re done. No more ugly blousing. It probably takes a bit of finesse and a practice, so I’d do a test run on something you don’t care about first.

The video was created by ThreadBanger, a vaguely punk DIY fashion site. They’ve got a blog, forums, and a bunch of videos — all of which seem to be short, punchy and informative. I always say that one of the best solutions for short folks is to get clothes custom made. But if you want to save money you’ve got to make them yourself. To that end:

“ThreadBanger brings you into the homes and hearts and souls of people like you who just can’t hack the rack. These threadheads make their own clothes, their own fashion statements. And Threadbanger shows you their wears. Threadbanger empowers you with the insider’s view — the true how-to.”

Jockeyesque shoppers can always find flattering cuts at Theory, but they’re never cheap. Racked is reporting a quickie two-hour sale tomorrow (October 10) at their NYC flagship:

“Deal: Clothing and accessories for men and women are marked 15% off as part of a shopping event to benefit the YWCA and its Women’s Employment Program.”

OK. Fifteen percent may not sound like much, but at those prices it’s a significant cut. Besides, it’s for a good cause.

Check out what I’ve said in the past about Theory:

“Totally sharp looking. … Pocket dead center on the pectoral where it should be … well-defined lines. Slim fitting.”

And check out Racked for the sale details.

Today. Before 7 p.m. Don’t be like me and blow it.

I spent part of the weekend catching up with old friends (worth it) and checking out Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart (not worth it). More about that later. Right now, you need to get to the fcuk sample sale at Metropolitan Pavilion, 110 W. 19th St. before 7 p.m. today. Pray that there are a few scraps left because my friend left me this very enthusiastic voicemail a few days ago:

I’m at the French Connection sample sale and it’s amazing. It’s me and all the other short men in New York trying on what remains of their extra smalls. Fantastic prices. You’ve got to come tomorrow morning. It’s great.

Somehow, I failed to make it there this weekend. And now I’m headed upstate to visit relatives, so there’s no hope for me. Even if you don’t go to the sale, it’s a good reminder that French Connection in general is a good option for short men. They have XS sizing that’s slim and relatively short (even though it’s curiously not mentioned on their sizing chart. What gives, fcuk?). So if you miss the sale, suck it up and pay full price. It’s worth it.

– –

I might have to stop by next week and try on a few things just to feel better after the clothes-related downers I experienced this weekend. I finally got to check out the Black Fleece collection at Brooks Brothers, and I think I might have to finally write Brook Brothers off entirely. The new line looks stylish and beautifully made but I tried on their smallest size, a 1 (1-5), and it just hung off me. Maybe if you’re short and stocky or well-built it might be OK, but even then I think the sleeves would be too long. Sure, you could get them altered — but at those prices (well over $1,000) you should just go custom. Or borrow another grand and get a real Thom Browne (his sizing runs a lot smaller).

I was also disappointed in the new Paul Stuart line, Phineas Cole. My curiosity was piqued by this recent GQ post:

Paul Stuart is unveiling its own younger-skewing second line. Dubbed Phineas Cole, the collection falls somewhere between the Bastian-on-a-budget of Hickey and the fashion-forward (and oddly pint-sized) shopper Browne is targeting with Black Fleece. Suit coats — there are also shirts, trousers, and accessories — are cut shorter and closer to the body, with smartly attenuated waists and shoulders, while trousers cut an equally lean profile.

Sounds promising, huh? When I arrived at Paul Stuart the saleswoman took one look at me and said they wouldn’t fit. I tried one on anyway. No go. They only have 38s right now, but even though the 36s are coming in soon, she said they wouldn’t fit, either. The 38s were giant and also surprisingly long. A dealbreaker. I don’t know if GQ is just making stuff up or copying stuff blindly off press releases without actually checking it out first or what. But Phineas Cole is a no go for the, uh, “oddly pint-sized.”

“My friend Scotty is looking for leather bomber jacket that fits a guy with a short torso. My personal problem is that that can sometimes be found, but it’s always the case that the arms are too long and altering arms on a leather jacket seems a sin (as well as expensive).”

Jason, via e-mail

Can anyone out there direct him to some leather jackets with a good fit? I don’t know too much about them. Any suggestions are appreciated. You can comment on this post below or e-mail me directly. Thanks for your help!